Looking up at the Eiffel Tower

Paris was fabulous… It truly is the city of my heart – and we had an absolutely fabulous time!  Of course the first place we went was to see the Eiffel tower.  Friday night we drove through Paris – we went to the Musee d’Homme – which is closed for rennovation right now – so we could get a fabulous shot of the Eiffel tower by night.

By the way, did you know that the Eiffel Tower at night is considered a copyright image – and it’s owned by the state.  To use it, you have to get permission from the government – unless it’s part of a landscape shot where it’s just part of the scene.  Fascinating, don’t ya think?

So this photo was taken on our first full day of playing tourist. We were staying in the 14th arrondissement, and so we took the subway bright and early from there – there’s a stop very close to the Eiffel Tower, and the walk is pleasant (if crowded.)  We were told several times as several different places – the Eiffel tower, Versailles, Notre Dame – that Paris was “practically deserted” and there were hardly any tourists at all – compared to “normal” days… but it still seemed pretty crowded to me! (Especially when we arrived at the Eiffel Tower and saw the crowd of people standing in line – first to buy tickets, then to take the elevators to the second level of the tower… It was a

People in Line to Buy Tickets to Go Up in the Eiffel Tower

good two and a half hour wait for most people!

Luckily, we were whisked right to the front of the line, almost as soon as we got there, although there was probably a twenty minute wait for the elevator, and things got a little crowded there too. Still, it was such fun listening to all the different accents… Italian, American, Japanese, Russian…even French. And something that I noticed on this trip was that the restaurants, sidewalk cafes and tourist attractions were always full, with lots of people.  So if there’s a recession going on, someone forgot to tell Paris about it!

We took lots of photos of Paris from the Eiffel Tower – on the second level, and then from the third level – where you have to buy separate tickets again in order to go up to the third level!  Still… Eiffel tower… So worth it! Anyway, you can see what I mean about the lines from this photo… Alain snapped it from where we were at the ticket booth… And you can’t even see the end of the line or where the people stop… It was actually pretty impressive for a “slow, end of tourist season” day… And I don’t think I ever want to try to go to the tower in high tourist season!

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• Toulon's Open Air Market – Shopping on the French Riviera (1)

And we did some shopping in Toulon’s open-air market – and bought way TOO many fresh fruits and vegetables last weekend, so I’ve got photos of that to share with you too…

And let’s see… what else?  My radio show is going well.  I talked to my sister Cathy last night and she and her husband and my niece have been listening to my program and laughing their butts off – not, she said “at me”, but rather because it’s weird to have someone in your family on the radio! (And I almost wish she hadn’t told me, cause it’s weird right back knowing your family is listening!)

So, stay tuned for the next couple of posts while I add some photos and get you caught up on life on the French Riviera!

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Toulon

This year’s end-of-year concert for the benefit of the members, volunteers, professors and students at Le Relais Peiresc (the largest cultural center in Toulon), was fabulous.  Music was provided by the Toulon Navy Jazz band, and the conductor was, himself an accomplished musician.

The band was very spiffy in their dress whites, and they put on a fantastic performance – if you’re in the area this year, and you get the opportunity to hear them, you’ll be glad you did!  The musicians can play together as a symphony orchestra, or break out into different groups, such as this one.  They have performed all over the world, and according to one of the band members I interviewed after the concert, they practice for anywhere from three to six hours a day – longer when they’re getting ready for a performance.  (And speaking of orchestra, Alain and I have been invited to a special concert next Friday, where some of these same musicians will be performing again onboard the largest aircraft carrier in France, the Charles De Gaulle – more on that later… And I promise to take my camera and share lots of photos with you!)

M. Koubbi gives the welcoming speech to start the evening off

There were about 250 people in attendance this year, and it looked as if everyone had a wonderful time – I know I did!

M. Koubbi (the Principal of Le College Peiresc and the Head of the Board of Directors for Le Relais Peiresc got things started with a welcoming speech.  (The proceeds of the concert this year went to “Les Petits Frere des Pauvres” – the Little Brothers of the Poor.)  Their Director also gave a speech, thanking everyone for their support.

The band performed a variety of musical pieces – some of it I knew, and some was completely new to me, so I had the pleasure of discovering new music, which is always a treat – especially at my age!

Judging from the comments of the spectators as they were leaving the concert, it was a big hit with them too!

Waiting for the Concert to Start

In addition to the musical concert at the end of the year, Le Relais Peiresc also is a patron of the arts – offering a nice mix between newer, lesser-well-known artists (who often have a more difficult time getting their first showing) and those whose work already has a loyal following.

And it displays the work of its own students too, at an end of the year exhibition for those students who took art, design, painting, pottery, Chinese caligraphy, or any of the other art type classes available. Summer classes begin on July 2nd, and run for two weeks.  After that, we’re officially on vacation til September (and October for me), until the fall quarter classes begin.

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The Mimosa trees are in full bloom and seeing them is like looking at flowering sunshine.

Bormes is a fun town to visit – partly because it still has part of the old city that was built in the 12th century and part from the 16th century.  The old town has narrow,winding streets – some with stairs – like “bone shaker” street – which is what happens to you if you miss a step and fall here…

Then there’s “Lover’s Alley” – a narrow cobblestone street filled with unique artistan shops – linens, soaps and ceramics. (My favorites this year are the bright red jugs and platters and kitchenware. I’m definitely going back to stock up for the summer!)

Alain bought 3 bouquets of Mimosas – one for me, one for Elsa and one for his dad – who grumbled a bit, but was very happy to get his.

I’ll be creating a page about Bormes les Mimosas and sharing with you the wonderful streets and squares and gardens you that are a “must see” – so be watching for it!  And in the meantime, Happy Spring!

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The party was being given in honor of a woman who gave a lecture about 19th Century British artists whose work centered on Asian themes. (We didn’t get to attend the lecture, but all the guests raved about her, so I’m going to try to attend the next one, and Alain is going to try to get her to agree to do a series of lectures at the center!)

The party was a great success – and I had a wonderful time.  Conversation was fast and covered a lot of topics. Of the people I got to meet was a woman a rather famous opera singer at the Paris Opera in the 50s and 60s, Mme. Isabella Andreani.

We also met a lovely couple – he is a retired physicist and she is a comedienne, who have invited us to their place in May to attend a musical concert.  Their place overlooks President Nicholas Sarkozy’s summer place. I’m looking forward to that.

There are a few people I’m hoping to get to meet again on a social level as well.  One woman, a widow, baked two delicious tartes (pies) and I enjoyed getting to talk to her very much too.

The weather is still most uncharacteristically, a topic for conversation. (Normally, what can you say about 309 days of sunshine and a climate that makes you feel as if you’re in Paradise?) But this year it has been strange – snow in Marseille, roads and public transportation being shut down all along the French Riviera, bitterly cold wind – the Mistral – and so I feel almost English, since the weather has become a prime conversational topic.

By the way, the Mistral is the big wind that blows here in Provence, and it typically blows for 3, 6, or 9 days. I have no idea if there is a scientific way of telling how long it will blow when it starts up, but it started blowing yesterday, so we’ll see…

I’m looking forward to the weekend. Tomorrow is Valentine’s day, and Alain always does something romantic, and Sunday we’re having lunch with Annie and Bruno after church.  So we’re not crazy-busy, but we have something fun to do the entire weekend.

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After the wine tasting, we went to Toulon’s annual book sale – which was located on le Place d’armes. (One of the more beautiful squares in Toulon.)  The book sale is always lots of fun – it’s crowded, noisy and you get the chance to actually meet your favorite French authors.  

We have a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau for Saturday night – we’re having friends over for dinner to try out my new fondue service – and we’ll be enjoying a little Beaujolais at the same time!

Oh – and I picked a winner for the bottle of Beaujolais from the entries to the contest – and I sent the bottle yesterday!  Congrats Dianne – enjoy!

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So I’ve decided to create a list of the worldwide celebrations of Beaujolais Nouveau going on around the world right now – and turn it into a contest!

So- here’s the thing – if you know of a party – or if you’re throwing one – post it here or on the previous post about the Beaujolais Nouveau Celebration and on Thursday, November 21 – I’ll pick a winner at random.  And the winner gets a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau – from me!

Now of course, to enter this contest, you must be at least 21 years of age (or whatever the legal drinking age is in your town, city, state or country) and you have to be willing to give me proof of that.

So get posting – you don’t have much time if you want to have a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau of your very own -so you can see what the fuss is all about!  You can enter as many times as you want – but each post has to list a different party or celebration – and it has to be verifiable. (So don’t go making things up!)

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If you, like me, aren’t sure, it’s a way of spotlighting other blogs – and in this case, I am to share with you six things you don’t know about me.

So, here goes:

1. Tomorrow is my birthday – and it’s not just any birthday, I turn 50.  (Wow – I’m still having a hard time saying that out loud!  It sounds much older than it feels!)  When I was a kid, I loved the fact that practically the entire world celebrated my birthday!  (Okay, yeah, eventually I found out the reason for the real celebration – I think I was 9 – and I was devastated – for all of about 15 minutes.  Then my Aunt Colleen reminded me that I was still pretty special – after all, for the rest of my life, I’d always have the day off on my birthday – a privilege most kids don’t get to enjoy.)

2. I write the “Reinventing the ‘F’ Word Blog – (No, not THAT one) – it’s my irreverant and zany look at what it means to be a babyboomer woman, entrepreneur and mother…and I’m enjoying writing it a lot.  I started it because I’m not ready to get out the wheelchair, shawl and Bengay.  I’m not exactly sure what being 50 is supposed to feel like, but the blog is my way of sharing the journey with you. (And if you’re a boomer with a sense of humor, I’d love to hear from you and get your thoughts as well!)

3. I am a (really) bad potter.  I took up pottery last year – and “I had a Dream!” (that I’d send my family and friends beautiful works of art for Christmas).  But after 2 months of working very hard, I discovered something – no matter what I made, it ended up looking like an ashtray.  So in September, when I decided things weren’t going to get any better, I sent out a form letter to everyone on my Christmas list, warning them that they should begin taking up smoking – immediately – so that they could get the rich and full enjoyment from their Christmas presents.  This year, because of how expensive ciggarettes are, I’m going to try my hand at making spoon rests.  Damn…if you’re on my Christmas list this year, you’ve just spoiled the surprise.  But, since you’re here, may I suggest that you take up cooking things in pots. That way you will get the full enjoyment from this year’s Christmas presents.

4. I secretly love reading Nora Roberts.  I also (not so secretly) enjoy reading her as J.D. Robb.  Sure, some people think of them as trashy romance novels – and in fact, I think she got her start writing for one of the romance publishers – but if you haven’t read them, don’t knock them!  Her characters are rich, full-bodied flawed people who, in spite of whatever life throws at them, stay true to themselves, try to do the right thing, and yes, fall in love.  (In other words, her books reek of real life.)

5. Things I miss here in France: Candy corn and candy hearts (at the appropriate holiday seasons), frozen bean and cheese burritos with guacamole, sour cream and shredded cheese, real Mexican food, Shopping at Walmart (I know, I know…but I do), Yard sales, my girlfriends (including my mom and my sisters)…things I don’t miss at all: bad food, violence, the medical system.

6. Now I get to tag six other blogs! (This is fun, because I can share with you some blogs of people whose writing I enjoy!)

Oh My Word Did I Say That?

Polly-Vous Francais?

French For a While

A Languedoc Journal

These Days in French Life

La France Profonde

Well, there you have it! Check them out – they’re interesting, fun and funny and I enjoy reading them.

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Tony's Black Knight Costume

Halloween in France is definitely different than in the states, Ireland and other places where it is celebrated with Gusto!  Of course, in our house, we continue to mix and max holidays and celebrations, and Halloween is one that remains at the top of the list.  And as such, we are a curiosity and getting an invitation to our place for this day has become something of a status symbol by the kids’ friends!

This year we’re not holding a Halloween party per se, although Elsa has asked if she could bring two friends over, and Tony and Bodine are going out around town “in costume”.  This is the first tie Bodine has worn a Halloween costume, so he had to get special permission from his mom to come, and he seems a little excited about it, but also a little unsure. (But they ended going out 3 times, coming home to change costumes each time and it was Bodine’s idea that they go to the mall in costume, so I guess he liked it!)

Jon is going to a costume party with friends – although to me, they all pretty much look like they always do, except perhaps with a bit more black makeup on their faces!

Alain has a rugby game, so he won’t be home at all,so it’s just me with the kids.

We pulled out our sad little sacks of Halloween decorations…and every time we do, I miss the 6 plastic storage boxes of Halloween decorations, plus my collection of 27 animated witches, our 13 ghosts – all of which shrieked, moaned, or moved in appropriately spectre fashions, and the collection of Universal Studios Monsters – we’d finally gotten the entire collection – including the Creature of the Black Lagoon and the Wolfman…

Those were the days!

Of course, we are slowly collecting the odd and the spooky here – for example, we have Frankenstein’s hand

Halloween 2008 - Tony

that crawls across the floor – and that Lilly has taken a definition dislike to this year – last year she was more fascinated.

And we have a witch that walks (although it looks like the moisture got to her last winter – and she’s not moving this year – with arthritis I can sympathize with her!) and a dracula who sits up in his coffin and sings, and the skull bank that “eats” your money…

Tony and Bodine had a great time – they came home and changed costumes 3 times, because Bodine was having so much fun and he wanted to try on different costumes.

Elsa and her girlfriends painted scary things and then watched the original Halloween and enjoyed our body parts snacks.

Elsa and Her Friends Halloween Crafts 2008

Halloween is begining to take on a bittersweet feel for me, because as the kids get older, we do less, and I find myself nostalgic for the days of decorating the entire house October 1, planning the best trick-or-treat routes – to all the houses that give away the best candy – and visiting and participating in my mother’s haunted house – where the entry fee was a can of food for the food bank.

Maybe it’s also the fact that I’m going to turn 50 in a couple of weeks…this week I’ve been remembering past Halloweens when I was a kid.

We lived in this big old house when I was growing up that had a scary basement – the kind that makes you imagine the boogie-man jumping out of the furnace room to gab you and chase you up the stairs.  (I used to have nightmares about that house even after we moved!)  But one thing it was perfect for was as a spook alley!  We had one every Halloween for the five or so years we lived there.  All my aunts and uncles and assorted neighbors and friends of my parents would get together starting the first weekend in October to decorate the entire house.

Since my bedroom was “part of the route” for Trick or Treaters, I was used to having assorted roommates

Tony with Frankenstein's Hand

who were ghosts, goblins, vampires or witches, and having my room turned into tortue chambers, witches’ caves, or a mad scientist’s laboratory over the years…I wish I had some of the amazing photos we took over the years.  On Halloween’s eve we always had a lifesize scarecrow sitting on the front porch – and the trick or treaters were always terrified when it stood up and reached out to grab them!

They would crowd together and tiptoe hesitantly into the house, where one or the other of my aunts – dressed as a witch or a corpse (depending on which one drew the lucky straw to be the greeter) would either cackle or moan and point the way to the next room…

We had such amazing treats in store…the kitchen was transformed into a goulish laboratory – and visitors would be allowed to look at the different “body parts” on display – and never failed to scream and moan as they stuck their hands into brains (moulded cold spaghetti), mashed eyballs – red jello and marshmellows, intestines – cold pasta again…

The furnace room I spoke of earlier – actually had a dirt wall in the back – and of course was reserved for the spector of death himself – to come out of the darkness and try to drag someone back in with him. (It was usually someone in the family, who cried and twisted and begged the crowd to help him (or her) – as they were dragged back into what we all considered to be a doorway to hell itself…

Tony and Bodine About to go Haunting Halloween 2008

I guess because of the way mom made all the holidays special and threw herself into making them that way for us, that I have always tried to do the same thing for my kids as well.

This year Tony helped me to create the “finger food” for the party.  As always, we started with “witches fingers” – basically they are coctail sauseges with sliced almonds insert (for fingernails) served with barbecue sauce for dipping!

Skeletal Hand in the spooky punch Halloween 2008

Then we made something we thought was really unique for the punch bowl – we took two clearn clear non-latex gloves – and filled them with water – and put them in the freezer.  These we put in the punch bowl – and although we had planned to take the gloves off – we ended up leaving them on, because the total effect was that of a skeletal type hand, and the ice looked like bones!  We also created ghosts out of suckers with tissues put over them and tied with thin ribbons.  (Okay, hokey, but here – exotic!)

In all, when the witching hour struck – a good time was had by all…

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Fall is normally the time when the leaves on trees start turning brown – well, at least the grape vines do. (A lot of our trees here on the French Riviera stay green all year long!)  But in many parts of France, a disease is hitting Chestnut trees and turning their leaves brown all year long.

The disease is called “Chancre du chataignier” (chestnut canker) has been spreading through France for several years.  It’s also hitting trees in Italy, Germany and Switzerland, the French Minister of Agriculture says.  It’s caused by a teeny tiny fungus, and sadly, there’s no cure.  It really attacks the trunk of the trees, but it turns the leaves brown and gives them a dried up, almost dead look when it reaches the top of the tree.

One bit of good news is that the trees are supposed to be building a kind of resistance to the fungus, which means they’re not only surviving longer, but in some cases they’re actually recovering.

I’ll update this post as soon as I can with a picture of some of the chestnut trees in one of our local forests.

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