Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence has all the modern conveniences of a thriving city, combined with the vibrancy and excitement of a college town and with the charm of a typical Provencal village.  It is home to the Music School, three Universities (Aix/Marseilles) which offer graduate and post-graduate level courses, in both old disciplines (engineering and medical schools) along with new courses in Social and Pure Sciences, Humanities, Health Studies and New Technologies.  They also offer many exchange programs, so you’ll find students from all over the world.

Aix-en-Provence is located between Marseille (about 32 km and Saint Maxime/La Santa Baume about 35 km.) Although it has all the modern conveniences, Aix en Provence is an old city.

The History of Aix-en-Provence

The first recorded history of the city then called Aquae Sextiae goes back to 122 BC.  It was founded by by Sextius Calvinius, after he destroyed the Ligurian oppidum at Entremont.

In 102 BC, Marius, who defeated the Teutons on the plain of Pourriéres (20 km east of Aix), embellished the town with monuments.

And in 45 BC, Caésar declared Aix a colony.

Thermal baths were developed around 15 BC because of the local mineral hot springs (there is still a hot

water fountain in Aix).

When the Roman Empire was reorganized at the end of the 3rd century AD, most of the Celtic-Ligurian capital there was destroyed and the city of Aix was built – and it became the capital of the Second Narbonnaise.

Aix en Provence During The Middle Ages

We know there was an archbishop in Aix around 400 AD, but the real establishment of archbishiopric didn’t happen until the 8th Century.  The Roman colony was abandoned in 574, and Aix became a place besieged by repeated invasions and battles, especially by Barbarians and the Saracens.  The regional government moved to Arles during this time.

Aix Regains its Stature and Power

In 1182, the Counts of Provence decided to make their home in Aix en Provence, and slowly the city began to regain its luster. It became known as a city of refinement and culture.

In 1409, Louis II founded a university here.  And in 1487, along with the rest of Provence, Aix-en-Provence was given to the crown of France.

In 1501 King Louis the XII established the parliment in Aix, making it the capital of Provence, which lasted until 1789.  During the 17th and 18th centuries, Aix  (which had sided with the losing side during the French Revolution) began to lose power – which shifted to Marseille.  It wasn’t until the 19th century that things began to pick back up.

Aix-en Provence Today

Today Aix is a wonderful place to come to play tourist and enjoy the best that the Mediterranean lifestyle has to offer.  Although traffic can be heavy in Aix, there is a lot of pedestrian traffic as well, and you can find find bike stands throughout the city, where, for a nominal fee, you can rent a bike to take you wherever you want to go.

Although you can walk around the main part of the city in a couple of hours, you can’t really discover all that Aix has to offer even in a couple of days.  There is just too much to see and do.  The center of Aix en Provence is the old part of the city – the Vieux Ville, which is surrounded by squares and fountains and boulevards. The heart of Aix is the Cours Mirabeau – a wide tree-lined boulevard with a long expanse of open air sidewalk cafes, restaurants and fast food joints on one side, and frequent open air markets on the other, which feature vendors who are selling everything from African masks and sculptures to handmade jewelry, soap and essential oils.

At Christmastime this area comes alive as well, with lights and Christmas decorations and this is one of my favorite places to come shopping for those unique and original gifts that can’t be found anywhere else.

What to See in Aix en Provence

There are so many things to do and see in Aix – it’s hard to know where to start! (If you only have a few hours, I recommend that you visit the Cezanne workshop and then walk around the old part of Aix.  If you’ve got all day, you can include a few other of the activities listed below!)

The Most Famous Sidewalk Cafes:

You’ve got Les Deux Garcons Café – a hangout of many stars and internationally known personalities when they’re in Aix en Provence.  It’s still the place to go when you want to see and be seen.  It’s wonderful outside, where you can enjoy sitting in the shade of the huge plane trees that line both sides of the street, and watch the world strolling by – but make sure you check out the inside.  Built in 1792 by two waiters (Garcons in French), the interior of this fabulous 18th century brasserie/cafe was built to resemble a real Paris bistro.  The food is good, the service has improved and the prices are not outrageous.  Don’t forget your camera!

Then there is Le Grillon.  It’s another great place to go if you enjoy people watching.  There seems to be a pretty even mix here between students and non students, so it’s not a restaurant you need to worry about fitting in.  The service here sometimes leave something to be desired, so if you expect excellent service to come with the price of your meal, you might want to try another restaurant.  Oh – and when you go inside, don’t forget to look at the cricket lights. (Le Grillon means cricket in French.)

If you don’t want to eat at “touristy” restaurants, may I suggest you get off the beaten path a bit?  Aix has some wonderful little pathways that lead you past the fishmonger’s market out onto winding little streets that have great sidewalk cafes (see picture above).  And if your palette is in the mood for something a little different than traditional French cuisine, you can find restaurants, cafes and brasseries that serve Indian, Chines, Vietnamese, Turkish and even American food.

And if you’re worried about your wallet, then try the terrace cafes on the Place des Précheurs.  It’s the place by the flower market.  Because most of the restaurants have lower prices than those on the Cours Mirabeau (although the food is just as good), you’ll find lots of the younger local crowd hang here, so it’s always lively and you’re likely to hear many different languages being spoken, as well as music and laughter.

Getting to Aix-en-Provence

Transportation to Aix isn’t difficult – you can get here by car, by train or, depending on where you’re coming from, by bus.

Warning: If you’re driving to Aix, don’t bother driving into the old part of the city and expecting to find a place to park, unless the Goddess of Parking Spaces really likes you.  You won’t find one.  Parking is a problem in Aix.  However, there are several underground parking lots – you’ve got Pasteur, Bellegarde, Cardeur, Mignet and Carnot.  One of the best is the Carnot’s huge underground parking – we’ve even found parking there during the vacation season! It’s located on the South-Eastern corner of the ring road. It’s actually better to park in one of these parking lots than to try to find parking on one of the side streets.  (If you’re going to the Cezanne workshop for example, I strongly recommend that you park in the security parking below and take a bus or walk up to Cezanne’s place – it’s just safer.)

Muesums in Aix en Provence

Musée Paul Arbaud with its interesting Provençal faience collection is located on the rue (street) 4 Septembre.  Named after it’s creator/donor, the museum is filled with one of the most important collections of Provencal earthenware, numerous paintings and manuscripts dating from the 14th to the 20th centuries.

2, Rue du 4 Septembre
13100 Aix en Provence
tel : 04 42 38 38 95
Site internet : [ http//: musee.arbaud.free.fr ]

The Atellier (Workshop) of Cezanne

Five years before his death, Cezanne had a house built for himself that was in the exact spot where he spent some of his happiest childhood memories.  In the middle of a dense area of underbrush, trees, wild flowers and plants, he created a the “perfect” refuge where he could paint what he saw and felt.  One of the things that is so profoundly touching about this museum is that you see the artists things scattered around – as if he had left the workshop just before you got there – and is expected to return at any moment.  In the southwest corner for example, hung casually on a wooden hook is the dirty gray canvas coat he used to wear when he’d go out and up the hill where he painted many of his paintings of the Saint Victoire mountain.  His cane leans haphazardly in the corner, and his little metal and canvas paint box still stands, waiting for the master to grab it and on his way out the door.  You’ll also find many of the same sculptures – such as the naked cherub, and the white ceramic dishwear featured in many of his stillifes.  On the north wall, in front of the 20 ft high windows he had specially built for his studio, sits an old bureau.  In it’s drawers you’ll find small mementos and treasures – his ties, cufflinks, a pipe, old photos of other painter friends.  You gain an intimacy with Cezanne in this room – a feeling for what he thought, felt and the way he looked at ordinary things in an extraordinary way.  Don’t be surprised if you leave the workshop – somehow – changed.  As if a kaliedscope shifted, and you too see things from a different perspective.

Parking surveillé
Bus n°1 au départ de la Rotonde
9 Avenue Paul Cézanne
13090 Aix-en-Provence
tél : 04 42 21 06 53
fax : 04 42 21 90 34
E-mail : infos@atelier-cezanne.com
Site web : [ www.atelier-cezanne.com ]

English Bookstores (Books Written in English)

There are two English bookstores here in Aix-en-Provence, and I love visiting both of them.  When I want to linger with a book over a cup of tea and a little munchie, I go to Book in Bar.  And when I’m looking for my favorite authors and don’t want to have to find someone new, I go to Paradox.

Book in Bar 
1 bis, rue Joseph Cabassol
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: 04 42 26 60 07

Paradox 
15 rue du 14 Septembre 
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: 04 42 26 47 99

Stay tuned for more information coming soon about what to see and do in Aix en Provence!

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