Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez – Where the Rich and Famous Come for Vacation

On the French Riviera, the city of Saint Tropez has to be one of the best known and most famous in the world.  It sits on the Mediterranean coast between the cities of Hyeres (about 40 km) and Sainte Maxime (about 14 km).

A Brief History of Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez, the man – was born in Pisa (Tuscany) under the name of Calvius Silvius Torpetius, of patrician lineage.  He was a brilliant officer and chosen by Caesar himself to hold the charge of steward of his palace. He was converted to Christianity by Saint Paul while he was Caesar’s custodian, and confessed his faith during a feast organized by the Emperor (not the best timing do you think?).  Caesar condemned him to death – and he was thrown into a pit of wild beasts, to be torn apart and eaten alive.

But, according to legend, the wild beasts laid down at his feet.  Enraged, Caesar ordered that he be beaten to death.  Sadly (for the executioner anyway), the pillar Torpetius was chained to collapsed – falling on the executioner, and killing him instead.

To put an end to things quickly, Caesar ordered him quietly beheaded, which was done with no fanfare.  His body was then put into a boat with no oars (although most dead men don’t row) along with a cockerel and a dog (both symbols of malevolence in the day) and set adrift at the mouth of the River Amo. (His head is supposed to still be kept in a chapel that bears his name in Pisa.)

Carried along by the Ligurian current, the boat arrived – miraculously unharmed – and ran aground on the shores which would later be named Saint Tropez on May 17, 68 A.D. 

Every year a group of Tropezians set off on a pilgrimage to Pisa on April the 29, the day he was put to death.

As you can probably already tell, Saint Tropez has had a long and varied history. 

Long before these events happened, in 599 B.C. Phoenicians from Asia Minor settled in Marseille.  They set up a series of harbors along the Mediterranean coast, to make navigation easier between their trade posts.

Among these anchorages was ancient Athenopolis (which was perhaps located exactly where Saint Tropez is today); this Bay, which was oriented West to East, is a natural shelter for seafarers. In 154 B.C. Marseille was being harassed by aggressive Ligurian tribes who were threatening their trading posts, and they appealed to Rome for support.  The action started the beginning of the Roman expansion into Gaul. 

After a battle of Actium in 31 B.C. part of the 8th Legion was settled in Forum Juli (now called Frejus).  The Romans extended their colonization of the Saint Tropez peninsula by setting up Villa during the first century.  The Villa known as “Les Platanes” in Saint-Tropez is a notable example.  The Roman name of “Herclea” was claimed by the township of Saint-Tropez and goes back to this period.

Towards the end of the 9th century, after the dark ages – which had followed the fall of the Roman empire, there are tales and legends of robbers and pirates along the coast of Saint-Tropez; the dark and dastardly deeds of these smarmy fellows went on for about 100 years and their legends have been handed down from generation to generation, until it has become impossible to separate myth from truth.  Part of the story that remains is that the deeds were attributed to a singe enemy (perhaps unjustly so) – the Saracens.

And according to legend, Guillaume of Arles – Count of Provence, drove the last of the Saracens away in 972.  In 980, as a token of his new authority, he had the “Square Tower” built (these days it’s known as “Tour Suffren”) as a warning to any would-be invaders.

The first written proof of the town of Saint-Tropez comes from the records of the Abbey of 5 Saint-Victor” in the middle of the 11th Century, when they mention a church being dedicated in the memory of Saint-Tropez (Ecclesia Sancti Torpetis) and a “Castrum” – which, in the latin of the time, meant a baronial fief and its estate.  Further mention of Saint-Tropez was confirmed in Papal records between 1079 and 1218.

The Main Commercial Port of France

Saint-Tropez was the main commercial port for France before 1914, and, as noted above, has always featured in the defense of France.

A Mecca for Artists – There’s Something In the Air in Saint Tropez

In the 1860s, the fishing village of Saint Tropez became a favored spot for painters – including Paul Victor

Jules Signac, a neo-impressionist painter, who spent his summers traveling in his yacht called the L’Olympia, named after Manet’s infamous nude, painting along the French Riviera.  One day a bad storm forced him to make port – in Saint Tropez.  It didn’t take him long to fall under the spell of the light, and he continued to come back.  Eventually he had a house built – called La Hune, it’s still there on the Rue Paul-Signac.

He gave famous house parties – and the rich and famous, as well as artist friends began making the trek from Paris’s St-Germain-des-Pres to attend.

It didn’t take long for fellow artists Bonnard, Matisse, Marquet, Dufy, Derain, Vlaminck, and Van Dongen to also be seduced by Saint Tropez and the special light that one finds there.  (And it’s true – there’s something about the light in Saint Tropez.  It’s difficult to describe – even for a writer!  It almost has to be experienced.  The closest description I can give you is that it’s like a pearl that’s been dipped in gold.  The very air seems to shimmer, just a bit here.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Fashion Industry “Discovers” Saint Tropez All Over Again in the 20’s

In the 1920’s, Saint Tropez was “discovered” again – this time by international stars from the fashion industry.  You’ll find the latest fashions still in Saint Tropez, with everything from haute coulture to small boutiques available for your shopping pleasure.  Love shopping?  Here’s a short list of some of the world-renowned shops you’ll find in Saint-Tropez:

 

• Hermes
• Dior
• La 7eme Vague
• Archimede
• Leonard
• Rondini
• Cecille
• Carre Blanc
• Frojo
• Parfumerie Trupheme
• Francesca Dona Jewellery

Saint Tropez During World War II

 

During WWII, on August 15, 1944, Saint Tropez was the central site of a beach landing in “Operation

Dragoon”, the Allied invasion of southern France. Here is a photo of a plaque that honors the Americans, the Canadians and the English who fought and gave up their lives to rescue the French people.

If you’re a history buff, or you’re interested in WWII, there are so many wonderful monuments, tributes and museums.  (One of these days I’ll get around to getting a page put together for it!  There are also some very moving American military cemeteries all throughout France.)

 

 

The French Existentialists’ Take Over Saint Tropez

After the war it became the French existentialists’ summer retreat, and it was then that visitors to Saint Tropez could also bump into artists such as Picasso, Francoise Sagan, Jacques Prévert and others.  It was during this time that the famed “nude beaches” first came into play – and in fact, there are still several beaches that are used by naturalists.

Sex, Sand and Sun – Hollywood Comes to Saint Tropez

But it wasn’t until the late 1950’s when the young Brigitte Bardot starred in the film “And God Created Woman” (1956) which was directed by her husband Roger Vadim.  Some say this is the film that catapulted her into stardom – and while that may be true, it certainly cemented the reputation of Saint Tropez as the playground for the rich and famous!

If you visit Saint Tropez today, you’ll find brightly painted fishing boats sitting side-by-side giant super yachts, and watching these huge and unbelievably expensive boats dock has become a favorite pass-time of visitors.  In fact, during the summer months, it becomes quite a zoo – only I’m not sure who is watching who!  Everytime a new boat comes in to dock, literally hundreds of people will line up on the sidewalk and spill over onto the street, trying to catch a glimpse of the occupants, to see if it’s someone famous – or, in some cases, infamous!

We try not to venture into Saint Tropez during the summer months – in fact, I much prefer fall, when the weather is still beautiful, but the crowds and traffic are not a problem any more!

However, if you’re coming during the summer, it’s worth fighting the traffic (it can take you over an hour to get into Saint Tropez from the autoroute) and the wall-to-wall people, if for nothing else, just so you can say you’ve been there.

Shopping, Restaurants and the Hottest Night Spots in Saint Tropez

And you never know, you may just find yourself shopping in one of the chic boutiques (like Hermes) with the likes of Pamela Anderson, or run into Tom Hanks buying fresh produce in the open air market on Tuesday or Saturday mornings in the Places des Lices.

Or maybe you’d prefer to dance the night away with Brad and Angelina, Johnny Depp or George Clooney in one of Saint Tropez’ chic night spots – such as the Caves du Roy – located in the exclusive 4-star Hotel Byblos located on the Avenue Paul-Signac. (Warning: if you’re on a limited budget, go somewhere else – the cover charge is by the table – and although rates vary, expect to spend a minimum of 250 euros – although this does include the price of a bottle of your choice of alcohol, and unlimited soft drinks or juice.) Oh – and some clubs have a dress code – definitely no beachwear, and in some places even jeans are frowned upon.

However, there is so much more to Saint Tropez than movie stars and super yachts.  Walk up the tiny narrow streets to la rue des cloches and visit the famous pink and yellow 18th century church and bell tower – but be warned – it’s only open in the mornings.

And no matter what time of year you come, there are some other “must sees” in Saint Tropez as well.

What to Visit While You’re In Saint Tropez

Musée de l’Annonciade

One of my favorite museums in Saint Tropez (it’s on the southwest corner of the Vieux Port on the – next door to the Hermes shop – so you can’t miss it!) is the Musée de l’Annonciade.  It was originally a chapel built in the 16th century, and it houses an amazing collection of art from the artists who loved Saint Tropez.  Just some of the paintings and sculptures in their permanent collection include works from Paul Signac, Braque, Matisse, Utrillo, Van Dongen, Bonnard, Dufy and others. Some of the artists became famous, others not as much – but they each contributed to the history that makes Saint Tropez a continued favorite place for artists even today.

The museum also has amazing little temporary exhibitions each summer, and then offers other events at Christmastime and Easter.

Also, if you enjoy hiking, another must-see is the the citadel – it sits on a hill overlooking the city, and is one of the best places to take photos and get a bird’s eye view of Saint Tropez!

Musée de la citadelle

The Citadel of Saint-Tropez is a typical example of military engineering. However, after it was built, the Citadel became a sore subject to the people it was supposed to protect, the king and later the Republic, partly because it was considered too costly to maintain.  So the people of Saint Tropez gathered their own weapons and the King agreed to leave them the cannons, and the people defended the city alone. In 1637, they defeated the Spanish galleys, in 1596 and 1652 they took the fortress over from dissidents, again in 1652, with a force of only 200 mem, they fought off galleys coming from Toulon.

Visit the Old Part of the City of Saint Tropez

After you visit the citadel, wander through the streets of the old part of Saint Tropez on your way back down to the Vieux Port.  You’ll love the narrow, winding streets.

Some of my favorite places to shop for gifts are here in this part of the city.  Being an avid bargain hunter, I prefer to come shopping during les soldes (the sales), or during the holidays, when there are not only special prices, but you can find items that you would not normally be able to find along the French Riviera.

Be warned though – things can be expensive – Saint Tropez is still a city that caters to the rich and the very rich! But if you pay attention to the prices, and take the time to look around before buying, you can find some unique and unusual souvenirs of your trip to Saint Tropez!

After walking around, one of my favorite things to do is grab a drink at one of the famous brasseries such as Le Gorille or Le Sénéquier, and watch then endless parade of people who walk by.  It’s endlessly entertaining! As I said before, fashion is still an important part of Saint Tropez today, and you’ll see a little bit of everything here.

One of the things I love about living on the French Riviera though is that beauty doesn’t only belong to the young.  In Saint Tropez, as well as other cities on the French Riviera, women of all ages – into their 60s, 70s and 80s still wear the latest fashions – and look good doing it!  And European men appreciate them – and it’s not unusual to hear a beautiful, elegant older woman being whistled at – although it’s usually the equally elegant Italian men doing the whistling!

The House of Butterflies

This museum was created by Dany Lartigue, son of the famous photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue, and grandson of André Messager, member of the French Academy, manager of the Paris Opera and close friend of Fauré and Debussy.

The butterflies are presented in the former family residence, which is now the property of the Town of Saint-Tropez.  In this typical Tropezian home, (which is worth a visit just to see) you’ll discover a fabulous collection of all the French diurnal species that have been assembled by Dany Lartigue over several decades.

Located at 9, rue Etienne Berny, this amazing museum houses over 20.000 items, and includes several now-extinct or protected species, and others which are rarities or abnormalities, such as the Black Apollo from the Mercantour region.

There is also an extremely important collection of exotic species from Amazonia and the Solomon Islands: which have been called “The most beautiful butterflies in the world.”

Thousands of specimens are still being sorted and repaired so they can someday be presented under the best conditions – and really, it’s the presentation that makes this collection so amazing. With his artist’s sensitivity, Dany Lartigue created a highly original and unusual approach to exhibiting the butterflies, because in many cases he also painstakingly recreated the natural environment of certain species, so you get to see and appreciate the sublteties of color and camouflage provided by nature.

The scientific value of the collection, as well as its intrinsic beauty, has made this a world-renowned collection and entomologists from all over the world come to study here.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side – A Walking Tour of Saint-Tropez

Statue of Saffren in Saint-Tropez 1866

When you’re tired watching the yachts and super yachts lined up along the old harbor, one of the first things you’ll probably notice is the larger-than-life statue of Pierre-Andre de Suffren, whose statue was erected on the orders of Emperor Napoelon III in 1966.

It’s made of bronze melted down from pieces of artillery taken in battle with the Engish Royal Navy.  Saffren rose to the rank of Bailiff in the Order of the Saint John of the Cross (in Malta) and then to Rear-Admiral in the French Royale.  He was an ally who contributed to the American Independence when he blockaded the English fleet at a crucial period of the war.

 

The “Porte de la Poissonnerie” (Fish Market) is next.  It’s right next to the tourist office (where they speak English and have brochures and information in English as well).  This is something to see on Tuesdays and Saturdays during the market – but it’s worth visiting when it’s empty too – then you can really see the mosaics and marble slabs.  This “secret passage” will take you to the entrance to the Old Town.  The other side of this former “gate” will lead you to the wonderful “Place aux Herbes” and the delightful open air market where you’ll find fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers, as well as regional products.