Hunting for Wild Mushrooms in France and the French Riviera

Mushroom hunting here in France (and in Italy, I’m told) is a serious hobby.  In fact, there are (depending on who you ask) between 120 and 3000 different varieties of mushrooms here in France and since the season starts in Autumn, it’s a favorite pastime of many people, young and old alike.

Does it surprise you to learn that the French Riviera is also known for having some wonderful places where you can go to pick mushrooms! (In spite of what you might have been told, the French Riviera is not all sea, sex and sand!)

And actually, one of the reasons we have so many varieties of mushrooms here in the south of France (from Aquitaine in the west to the Alpes-Maritimes in the east) has to do with our wonderful climate.

Of course, each village and region has their own rules and regulations about where you can go, how many mushrooms you’re allowed to pick, what kinds of mushrooms you should – and shouldn’t – choose, etc.  In fact, it’s regulated by law! (It’s listend in Article 547 of the Code Civil which stipulates that mushrooms belong to the owner of the land where they grow.)

You can buy many books on the subject – but be aware that it can still be difficult to tell what’s good and what’s basically a toadstool (champignons vénéneux) and can poison you.

The French Who Know Have a “Don’t Ask – Won’t Tell” Policy When It Comes to The Secrets of Where to Find the Best Mushrooms

So, here are some general tips that some of my English Conversation class have given me

• Go into the woods – you’ll find the biggest variety

• Look for trees that have been cut down

• Go after a rainstorm

• There are more mushrooms after a full moon (or so I was told – I haven’t verified this one personally yet)

Here Are Some Things You Need to Know Before Going Mushroom Picking in France

Fee or Free?

The prefect (Préfet) of each area has the right to set restrictive measures to preserve the local fauna and to limit or outlaw mushroom picking.  Each region can also charge a fee for all mushroom pickers – and there can be stiff penalties – or worse – if you’re caught doing something against the rules.  For example: It’s against the law to pick mushrooms on private property (without the express permission of the owner) – and if caught, you could be charged with theft!  This means staying out of pastures and private land if it’s fenced off.  The easiest thing to do is check at La Mairie (city hall) or the local tourist office to find out what the rules are, where the best places to go, and what you should be looking for.

Warning! Some mushrooms are Poisonous!

It’s absoultely vital that you know the difference between the edible mushrooms in the area, and those that are toxic.  Again, you can talk to the Marie, the Tourist’s office, or the local pharmacy.  Traditionally, everyone who picks mushrooms would then head to their local pharamcy, where the pharmacist would look them over for you, to make sure that the ones you chose are safe and delicious.  The trade union for pharmacists is actually trying to get rid of this age-old tradition, because, naturally, over the years, even pharmacists have made mistakes.

However, many smaller pharmacies still provide this service for their clients, so it never hurts to ask!  If the pharmacist can’t or won’t look at your mushrooms for you, ask around to find someone who’s knowledgeable.

Never Mix Different Types of Mushrooms When Picking:

Each type of mushrooms you pick must go into their own container – even if you think they’re all safe.  It just takes a little bit of powder from the gill of a toxic mushroom to contaminate your entire basket.

Don’t Pick Mushrooms found close to the Road:

Mushrooms absorb toxic chemicals and compounds such as lead, murcury and cadmium – found in exhaust fumes – all of which can cause long-term health problems when they invade your body’s systems.

Don’t Get Greedy!

Even edible mushrooms can be toxic if you eat too much of them.  So enjoy them in moderation.  And because some mushrooms can become poisonous if mixed with certain alcohols, you absolutely have to know what type of mushroom you’re eating with what food or drinks.

A List of the Equipment You Need to go Mushroom Picking:

• A sharp knife (so you don’t damage the mycelium)
• One wicker basket (wicker not only protects the mushrooms from being bruised or damaged, it makes you look like you know what you’re doing!)
• Paper – not plastic – to put the different varieties in (plastic bags are very bad for mushrooms)
• Good walking shoes or hiking boots
• Water (even though the temperature isn’t as hot as in summer, you should always have water with you when hiking or walking)
• Paper towels (to wipe the biggest clods of dirt off the mushrooms)
• A walking stick (not just to help you climb up and down out of ravines, but also good to shake the bushes and scare away snakes)
• An orange flourescent vest (unluckily, mushroom picking season coincides with the start of hunting season, and there have been some accidents when mushroom pickers were mistaken for game – and if you’re taking your dog – put him/her in a flourescent vest too – it’s sad how many dogs are killed during hunting season)
• A map or – better yet – a pedestrian GPS (if you’re not from around here, it’s easy to get lost – but its frustrating to the Gendarmes who get called out to look for people who can call them on their cell phones – but have no idea how to explain where they’re at)

We’re now on vacation for two weeks – so I hope to be able to take some photos to share with you of where we go mushroom hunting and what some of the wild mushrooms look like!

By the way, if you decide not to pick wild mushrooms on your own, you can always find them in the open air markets at the cities – although you’re going to pay anywhere from around 15 to 20 euros a kilo.  Be cautious of buying them from someone who’s just set up shop on the side of the road – although the price may be better, you’ve got no guarantee that you’re not buying the dangerous mushrooms that could make you sick – or worse.  (There are around 30 deaths from bad mushrooms a year here in France).

Update: A new friend of mine Frances Penwil-Cook – who writes “France and the Unknown” blog also wrote a post about mushrooms not too long ago, and she had the great idea of listing the poison control centers – just in case. As I mentioned earlier, there are only about 30 deaths a year in France from eating bad mushrooms, but still – they’re helpful numbers to have!

Tags:picking wild mushrooms in the French Riviera,what to take with you to pick mushrooms in France

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